We have eaten in all of these restaurants and whilst, of course, you can never discount the possibility of an 'off day' we have consistently found the quality and value for money to be excellent. However, the reviews we have written here, are the result of a particular visit when we have been playing food critics, (well, if Michael Winner can do it so can we)! For the sake of completeness we have had to include the well known places which always feature in the guide books, (where certain guides give an adequate description of the restaurant's style and decor we have used that and then added our particular comments). But we have also tried to include less well known restaurants which, dare we say, perhaps offer better value for money! | LOIRE RESTAURANT GUIDE AND REVIEW OF RESTAURANTS IN LOCAL TOWNS AND VILLAGES | | |
(Our selection is devised to help you in your restaurant choices and are all within a fifteen minute drive away) | | | | |
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We are using this 'star' system (to your right) to denote the price range of an average meal, excluding wine (unless otherwise stated). It is always possible to pay much more than this but we are just assuming that people do not normally order every higher priced item that is contained on the "à la carte" menu. Almost all restaurants in the Loire will have a fixed priced 'Menu du Jour' which are often excellent value for money! Lunch is served between 12.00-14.00hrs. Dinner is
normally served between 19.00 and 22.00. Be prepared as many restaurants do not open on Sunday and Monday evenings.
LE PUY NOTRE DAMEI have been a little busy lately with my new position
of “travialleur social” - carer- to my wife, Sheila,
who, after having spent a lifetime preparing for the big
one by breaking various ankles, wrists, suffering severe
whiplash and having various other mysterious and
complicated illnesess which were a source of great
delight and edification at assorted hospitals in both
England and France, has now decided to slip a disc in
her back and so is incapable of any meaningful
movement. That is with the notable exception of her
right hand, which, with the utmost dedication, she
selflessly continues to use in writing page after page
of lists, just in case I forget to do anything. Thus I
am now trying to finish the renovations and, at the same
time, do all the shopping,driving, cleaning, etc, etc.
A woman’s work is never done!
I really cannot understand what the problem is with
women these days. In the past they would have a baby in
their tea-break and then get back to the fish-gutting,
corn threshing or whatever, ignoring any pain. Now, a
little twinge from a disc pressing on the spinal nerve
and that’s it - incapacitated. I blame Mrs. Panchurst.
One great problem was that, until recently, not only
could Sheila not even stand and cook but, in her more
depressed moments seemed quite prepared to put on her
hair-shirt and live on stale bread and water. This does
not suit me very well as, of course, what with all the
extra duties plus the additional stress, (I mention
stress because one feels that these days one must,
otherwise it would seem as if I was the only person in
the world not suffering from it), I am normally in a
state of ravening hunger which sometimes puts me in
danger of eating my own arm!!
However, salvation was on the horizon, when the
new restaurant, Le Bouchon Ponot, opened in the
village. After a slightly dodgy start when John-Yves
and his team had to overcome major obstacles like how to
switch the new cookers on - and I am not joking!! - ,
all has now settled down and each time we (or I) go it
gets better and better.
The restaurant is situated next to the small
supermarket and occupies the former bread depot which,
in turn, gave way to the artisan bakers just up the
road. The renovations have been tastefully done and
feature lots of the local white, “tuffeau”, stone this,
together with the tiled floor, gives an impression of
space and cleanliness. They have also managed to make
the place look about three times the size it was before,
which is a neat trick.
Lunchtime meals are €11 and, like many local
restaurants the menu is fixed. The price is for three
courses and, normally, is the sort of simple, well
prepared food one expects at Lunchtime in rural France.
The Evening menu is for four courses at €16,50. The
last time we went was last week and the entrées ranged
from paté to frogs legs, (which I love and were
delicious), whilst the main course choices were
monkfish, duck, beef or venison followed by cheese and a
selection of desserts. I am afraid I neglected to ask
about veggy options, a subject not dear to my heart, but
I will do so tomorrow. Everything was superbly cooked
although our friend though the veg was a little
uninspiring. This is often a complaint about France in
general and, given that the region is a major producer
of market-garden produce, of the Loire in particular
but, I am afraid, that is the traditional french way
with vegetables being given only a small accompanying
role, almost as a garnish. The french generally supply
the “bulk” by eating copious amounts of bread with their
meals and quite often have a dish of “crudités”, - raw
veg. as a starter. And don’t forget that four courses
is often the norm.
The wine-list has only wine from two local producers,
one organic, but it is quality stuff - the 2005 Red
from La Domaine du Vieux Tuffeau is particually
interesting - and why not drink the local wine when you
are eating in a wine producing village, particually one
with its own appellation?
All in all, a very promising start exemplified by the
fact that it is getting busier and busier. The other
night, (Thursday), there were just two tables empty,
which is not bad for a restaurant in a small village in
the middle of January and the talk in the bar on
Saturday was that it had been full on Friday night. I
presume that most of the people there could easily have
eaten in Doué la Fontaine or Montreuil-Bellay, both five
mins. away and with a vast choice of eateries. My rule
of thumb in France is that if the locals use it then
give it a try and I have rarely been disappointed. We
are now recommending to our gite accommodation clients
that we reserve the restaurant for them if they wish to
eat there when they arrive. It really is a wonderful
thing for both residents and holidaymakers to be able to
walk to a local restaurant of quality, (or indeed a
bar), given the increasing governmental pressure on
drink-driving which, as a result, is becoming more and
more risky. plus, of course, it is not very sensible.
Thus I am sure that Le Bouchon Ponot will become a great
asset to the village.
Just one poscript. The former restaurant, La
Colleigialle, which closed two years ago has now been
purchased and the rumour in the village, is that it will
become a wine and tapas-bar, if this is the case it
will be amazing in a small, traditional village like
ours, whatever next - a Lapdancing Club?!
Finally, I bumped into John-Yves in the bar and asked
him about Veggie. options and he is quite happy to
discuss various options when the reservation is made
| | | Average Prices | *Below €20,00 | | ** Between €20,00/€30,00. | |
***Above €30,00 |
Tel: 02 41 53 69 46
24 Rue de la Collégialle
49260
Le Puy Notre DameNo Link
Price:- *
|
| | Supermarkets 
Click to Enlarge |
It might seem strange to include supermarkets in a restaurant review but not to do so would be to neglect one of the great achievements of the French nation, up there with the discovery of Penicillin and the Suez and Panama Canals, (well, perhaps not the latter because the Americans had to finish that!). But why is this? It is because by careful and intricate planning French men have persuaded French women that, in the great battle of the sexes, the women have won and they are now able to drag their men, kicking and screaming, to the supermarket. Or, in fact, not kicking and screaming at all, but rather with an ingratiating subservience. However, far from being a victory for Womens’ Lib., what they do not seem to notice is that whilst they are wheeling their, malfunctioning “chariots”, around the aisles filling it with Cassoulet, Roquefort and Jammy Dodgers, their men folk are safely ensconced in the bar, contentedly drinking their wine, pastis or café calva and watching the crumpet walk by. Unless, that is, there is football or rugby on the bar TV. It is, of course, always a matter of priorities! Of course, there has to be a trade off and this is that the men folk are expected to be at the till when their wives or partners arrive. This is somewhat annoying when one is down to the last five minutes of a Six Nations Rugby Match, but that is the way the contract works. At least watching the bulk of a rugby match on TV is better than inanely following your wife up and down supermarket aisles for several hours, like some perverse copy of the Muslim tradition which has the women following some way behind the men! What these bars also do is to supply cheap, good value food at lunchtime, (12.00 until 2.00pm) and, if you are in a rush or have large families to feed, they really are ideal. Their popularity is proven by the fact that, come midday, they are inundated by local workers from the surrounding offices and factories. Another, not inconsequential, result of the supermarkets hosting bar/restaurants is that they have to stay open during the lunchtime hours. This is by far the best time to do your shopping as all, self respecting French people are eating. As all the bar/restros are franchised their method of operation tends to vary at the discretion of the franchisee. For example, the Bar/Restro at Centre Leclerc in Saumur, is a straightforward self-service operation, although the vegetables and chips are supplied 'ad-hoc' from another service area behind the main till. The Bar/Restro in the Super-U at Doué la Fontaine is similar but gives you a ticket whilst the main meal is being prepared. The Super-U at Vihiers, by far my favourite, operates as a straightforward restaurant with waiter service for the main course and cheese/dessert with the entrée normally being from a self-service all-you-can-eat hors d'hoeuvre salad/charcuterie bar. If you ask for coffee, with the exception of Vihiers, all the others give you a token or a ticket. The token means that somewhere in the vicinity there is a self-service expresso machine and the ticket means that you go to the bar to obtain your coffee, after you have finished your meal. It is a great surprise to the French if you want to drink a beverage during a meal instead of afterwards. It offends their perceived notion of how things should be done!! So there you are. You cannot expect haut cuisine and one must say that sometimes the quality is occasionally variable. But millions of French workers cannot be wrong. And it has to be better than a recently deceased sandwich with a cup of lukewarm, indeterminable liquid from a café in Asda. Probably costs about the same as well! Bon Appétit! | | Price:- * | | Saumur |
| | . | | L'Escargot |
A tiny restaurant between Saumur and Bagneux seating only about 20 people. The heavy door constructed of wood with small glass panes opens onto a room with a draped ceiling. As you might expect as soon as you hear the name (l'escargot) it always offers recipes based on its gastropod mascot. It includes traditional French cuisine, superbly presented. You are often served by the Chef, Monsieur Olivier Thibault, having just cooked the dish. He displays a strong predilection for combining local and sea produce with exoticism or sweet and sour. A personal service is provided by his wife, Christine, who is very pleasant. On the day everyone thought their particular choice was very well cooked, I was particularly impressed by my unusual starter of snails in a cream sauce with oriental mushrooms. Many well chosen Loire wines by the glass available and also a winebar. Charming garden terrace at rear. Christine et Olivier Thibault | | Tel:- 02 41 51 20 88 30 avenue du Maréchal-Leclerc, Saumur. Closed Sunday evening and Wednesdays. Service until 21.00hrs No link Price:-** | | |
| | | | Auberge Saint- Pierre |
Situated, in a listed XVth building with its three superb tuffeau fireplaces on the corner of the square, alongside the church of Saint-Pierre. Over the years this has been our favourite restaurant, as much for its relaxed, friendly ambiance and its position as for its food. To eat outside on the terrace on a warm summer night whilst, at the same time, watching everything that is going on around you, is I think, a holidaymaker's dream of what France is about. There is true French food and cooking, excellent service controlled with a rod of iron by the head waiter, Pascal, (he of the handlebar moustache)! "Le Coté du Boef", for two people, is a rib of beef, carved at the table with panache. Perhaps a question mark over it at the moment, as it has new owners, so we will have to see if the new chef maintains the elevated standards of his predecessor. | | Tel:- 02 41 51 26 25 Place St-Pierre & 33 rue de la Tonnelle Saumur. Closed Sunday and Monday out of season. Link Price:-** | | |
| | | | Auberge de la Reine de Sicile |
Away from the beaten track, on a sidestreet, "entre les ponts", (on the island, between the two bridges, in the Loire). This little inn where calmness is king, welcomes you in an authentic setting by the fireside. (which, in winter, is often used to cook on). Discover a good value for money menu which changes with the rhythm of the seasons and a selection of wines available by the glass. Speciality is delicious pan cooked langoustines served with freshly made tagliatelle Lovely personal service! All our guests love this eatery. You can eat outside on the terrace in summer. Manuella et Cédric Poulain | | Tel:- 02 41 67 30 48 71 rue Waldeck-Rousseau, Saumur. Closed Sunday and Monday. No link Price:-** | | |
| | | | 30 Fevrier |
Just seconds away from the Hotel de Ville, facing the Loire in a brightly decorated but simple setting, This restaurant has for many years been welcoming people who love Italian specialities re-worked to suit Loire Valley sauces. On the menu, pizzas with pork 'rillauds' or with wine jam, vegetarian meals and dishes of the day. Monsieru Guiducci has a real knack for advising you to choose the right local wine! Monsieur Guiducci | | Tel:- 02 41 51 12 45, Pl de la Republique. Closed Sunday and Monday, out of season and Sunday night in season. Service until 22.30hrs No link Price:-*/** | | Montreuil-Bellay |
| | | | La Grange a Dime |
Genuine 15th Century setting which will transport you back to the Middle Ages! Traditional Loire fare, just one fixed priced, unchanging menu, consisting of aperitif, starter, main course, cheese and dessert and wines included. The style is "fouées" which is the name of the type of bread, traditional to the Loire region, baked on the premises in a wood fire and served throughout the meal to accompany such things as gallipettes, rillets and cassoulet. Great atmosphere with the staff in medieval dress (with varying degrees of success!). Service very pleasant, attentive and informal. Four courses and wines included €23,50. | | Tel:- 02 41 50 97 24 rue du Chateau Closed December and January. Price:-** Link | | |
| | | | Creperie-Grill, L'escalier Saint- Pierre 
Click photo to enlarge |
Up to the end of last year, if you were around the Place du Marché around 18.30hrs in the evening you could often see a diminutive Asian woman with a big plastic carrier-bag stomping methodically from the car-park in front of the Chateau to her tiny Chinese Take- Away' in the square. The carrier-bag, one assumes, carried all the ingredients for the evening's culinary masterpieces. It was a true example of the triumph of hope over reality and it was quite clear that the carrier- bag was carrying less and less ingredients, even to the extent that if you happened to see her leaving you could not help but notice that sometimes the bag seemed fuller than when it arrived! Eventually she realised that operating a restaurant in the Loire without customers is actually quite difficult to do and she sold her enterprise to the restaurant next door, which now occupies a delightful position, having a double-fronted frontage with chairs and tables clustered around the small fountain in the square. Food is the sort of good quality, competitively priced simple meals which is so difficult to find in the UK, Crépes (sweet and savoury filled pancakes), Galletes, Grilles and Salads. The fixed price menus are very well priced, the decor is pleasant and authentic and the service polite and helpful. One of our favourite good value restaurants in the Loire region. | | 02 41 52 36 31 25 Place du Marché, Montreuil-Bellay. No Link Price:-*/** | | |
| | | | L'Auberge des Isles |
The setting for this restaurant is an dream of what the Loire is all about, just at the foot of the Chateau in Montreuil-Bellay and alongside the River Thouet. In the heat of summer they have the sort of shady terrace you dream of, under trees designed to provide shade, idyllic and peaceful. This is good cooking with fish dishes and grill specialities. It seats up to 150 people. One of our favourite places to spend long Sunday lunches, which is just as well as the service is sometimes as laid back as the ambiance! So just enjoy it!! Wine available from the Chateau towering above. | | Tel:- 02 41 50 37 37 312 rue Boelle, Montreuil-Bellay. Closed November- February. Link Price:-** | | |
| | | | Le Salon de Thé |
This is not really a full time restaurant at all, just doing simple light good value meals and sandwiches at lunch time. It is actually a Bar and Salon de Thé, but I have included it because we love sitting on the wooden, flower-decked terrace directly opposite the impressive chateau (which provides the wine with your meal). Lovely place to eat after a visit to the little market in the morning on Tuesdays. | | rue du Chateau Price:- * No Link | | Fontevraud |
| | | | La Licorne |
A very refined restaurant in an XVIIIth century house and a peaceful and flowery garden. It is situated just a stone's throw away from Fontevraud's Royal Abbey. Menu of exceptional wines. A restaurant with a great national reputation, a place of 'Pilgrimage for Gourmets' but with prices to match! | | Tel:- 02 41 51 72 49 Allée Sainte Catherine, Fontevraud. Closed Sunday Night and Monday Link Prices:- *** and then another* | | La Croix Blanche |
Here you can enjoy a gourmet stop for lunch or dinner in the heart of the village just opposite the Royal Abbey. It offers wonderful gastronomic food in the hotel's restaurant or in the charming flowered terrace. Also there is a brasserie serving traditional food. Like all hotel restaurants the ambiance is sometimes subdued if it is a quiet time. But the food is excellent. | | Tel No:- 02 41 51 71 11 Place des Plantagenéts Link Prices:- * /*** | | Doué la Fontaine |
| | | | La Brasserie de laVille 

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One of the things that I used to enjoy doing in Doué was to sit outside this Brassiere/Bar with a friend or two, watching the cars attempting to negotiate the junction just outside, placing bets on the car most likely to have a crash! This was because four roads joined at that point and no-one seemed to have the slightest idea who had the right of way. Sadly, however, the town council, in a most unfrench like attack of Health and Safetyitus, have replaced this junction with a small roundabout and have instituted a totally nonsensical one way system throughout the town. This relieves the stress on motorists using the junction, but replaces it with worse stress because no-one has a clue how to navigate the narrow streets. Modifying the junction is basically a bad idea because it stops people enjoying a small pleasure in life. What they should have done was publicise "Crash Corner", in the Office de Tourisime as one of the minor sights of interest in the town and placed a few benches around so the public could have enjoyed the fun. Anyway, the net result was that the owners upped sticks and left obviously because they felt there was a yawning gap in their lives - they are, probably, even now scouring France for a Brasserie next to "Crash Corner 2" However, in their absence, the new owner has continued the concept of Brasserie at Lunchtime and Bar in the Evenings. Serving traditional French lunch time grub at a reasonable price and, as is usual, the Plat de Jour being particularly good value. (Rosbif and Frites €6.80). The speciality à la maison is Moules et Frites at €8.50, with a drink included. Though not as modern and as stylish as some of the newer eateries in Doué, it has loads of "savoir faire" and an authentique Brasserie feel. Shame about Crash Corner though!!! | | | Tel-02 41 59 18 34 2 Rue Foullon, Doué la Fontaine. No Link Price:- * |
| | |
| | | | Creperie L'Astrée |
Restaurant in centre of town serving delicious choice of simple foods, including assorted crepes, and have a very good 'Menu du Jour' at lunchtimes. The setting is extremely modern, with nice decor, friendly, comfortable and you can watch the chef in action as he cooks inside the restaurant! Very popular at lunchtimes. | | Tel:- 02 41 59 89 06 12 Pl Hotel de Ville, Doué la Fontaine No link Price:-* | | |
| | | | Auberge Bienvenue |
A gastronomic restaurant inside a hotel. This is a real chicken and egg question, what came first the hotel or the restaurant? In fact, unusually, it was the hotel which came second, built on the success of the restaurant!! It offers first-class presentation on fine china plates. This is French cuisine at its best. Although expensive in french terms, the prices are very competitive when compared to similar restaurants in the UK. The service is polite and attentive and various "amuse-bouche", (savoury titbits), are always included in the price. Established now for over 19 years under the same ownership, it has the reputation of having one of the best tables in the region,. always featuring fresh local produce. Marie-Line et Michel Roche | | Tel No:- 02 41 59 22 44 104 rue Cholet (opposite Zoo) Link Closed Sunday/Monday and 24/02-07/03 Price:- *** |
Le Baccarat
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Apparently the Chinese are opening one mammoth,
coal-fired power station every month. Each one of
these emits more carbon then the rest of the known
universe. And then some.
Which is why I decided
to replace my ancient electric razor with a
traditional wet one, thus doing my bit to combat the
peril from the east. All we need to do now is to
stop cows farting and we are on a roll.
So, on one of my rare
sorties through SuperU, I purchased something called
a Gillette Mach or Macho Razor or some suitably
masculine sounding thing. Surprisingly; it appeared
to be the only item in the Men’s Hygiene Department
which had no picture of David Beckham or Zinidan
Zidaine stuck on it (thankfully), but it did have a
futuristic ultimate war machine on the front, or
perhaps it was just a razor painted like a
futuristic, ultimate war machine. Anyway, the razor
did the job excellently although, the first time, it
left my face looking like the back of a
self-flagellating Opus Dei monk.
(Incidentally, whilst
typing this I missed the k out of Beckham and
Microsoft Word told me I had spelt it wrongly. After
inserting the “k” it gave me the all clear. How did
it know this? Is David Beckham now so famous that
even a computer software programme knows of his
celebrity? There must be people called Becham,
without the “k”. So how did Word know I wasn’t
talking about Mr. Becham and was talking about St.
David of the Goldenballs himself)?!!!! Bloody weird
if you ask me.
Eventually, of course
one has to buy new blades for a razor but it is at
this point that one realises that although SuperU
sells the razor, by some sort of convoluted logic,
they do not actually sell the replacement blades to
go with it. Don’t ask me why. I don’t know.
Now Sheila, on one of
her Voyages of Discovery, or ‘shopping trips’, as
they are also known, actually found out that the
replacement blades were sold in Intermarché, the
other large supermarket in Doué la Fontaine. They
do not, of course, seem to sell the razor!!
But the problem is that
I rarely enter through the portals of Intermarché as
I find the interior dismal, their foodstuffs lacking
in range, not offering the variety of goods that the
discerning buyer may expect in the early years of
the 21st Century and the staff/customer
ratio seems to be totally out of balance…..Oh,
and it hasn’t got a bar either.
I could ask Sheila to
buy me a packet but she would bring me a banana.
So I have therefore
been reduced to buying packets of disposable razors
from our local shop in Le Puy Notre Dame. These
razors are perfectly functional when it comes to
shaving the hairs on the front of my face but are
about as much use as a chocolate teapot when it
comes to tackling the softer hairs under my chin.
Thus, over a period of a few weeks, I acquired a
noticeable layer of thick felt under the jaw, which
serves no noticeable purpose whatsoever, except for
hiding malignant mosquitos, it also looks decidedly
odd.
So, finally, it became
necessary to either call a carpet layer or to go to
the Intermarché to buy replacement blades for my
Macho Turbo Thingy.
Well, on arriving on
the car park you could have knocked me down with a
pain au chocolat. Not only had the whole store been
renovated but someone has bunged a brand new
bar/restaurant on the front of it.
I am sure it wasn’t
there when I passed it last week.
At this point may I
thank all of you ,who actually thought this review
was about a restaurant, for staying with me! We
have now actually arrived at the said
establishment. It is called the ‘Le Baccarat’ and
is cleverly situated so that you do not actually
feel that you are in the supermarket itself. It is
brand, spanking new and has a sun terrace in front,
together with tables and sunshades. Service is
pleasant and attentive and the quality/food ratio is
superb.
We chose the €11,00
four-course Menu, (€16,00 over the weekend). This
consisted of a self-service salad/entrée bar
followed by a “plat principal”, followed by cheese
and dessert. The entrée included things like
crevettes, spiced sausages, prawns, boudin noir,
fresh salads, dressings, etc., etc. The main courses
had about six choices including fish dishes, beef
goulash, roast beef and braised ham. I had the
‘Beef Goulash’ which was subtly spiced and very
tender. Sheila had the ‘Roast Beef’ which was done
to perfection; rosy/red in the centre and, again
very tender. The round dessert table was groaning,
under a very large selection, sitting on a bed of
ice. Sheila chose a huge slice of Lemon Meringue
which, Harry Potter like, she magically
made invisible. I, being of much sterner
stuff chose to have neither cheese nor dessert.
Thus aquiring a certain feeling of moral
superiority.
With a perfectly
acceptable half pitcher of Anjou Rouge and Coffee,
the total bill was €25,00. I didn’t even bother to
negotiate a lower price to acknowledge the fact that
I had not had the last two courses from the fixed
menu. I thought it was pretty good value as it was.
They also do an à la
carte which includes grills, (steaks etc.) salads
and there is a choice of ten different pizzas.
So, in short, excellent
food, incredible prices, pretty good choice and
clean, pleasant surroundings. Ideal for a family
lunch, without breaking the bank.
You can also do your
shopping there. That is, of course, unless you want
to buy a Gillette Mach II Turbo Razor. You can get
the replacement blades though
| | | | Le Caveau - 'Restaurant Troglodytique' |
In the very heart of the city, the oldest Fouaces restaurant of Doué la Fontaine. The place to go if you don't want to miss regional specialities in a troglodyte setting! A good welcome is guaranteed. It is noted in the Guide du Routard. Fixed Menu Troglo €21.50 (Aperitif, Wine and Coffee included). Childrens menu €10,00. | | Tel No:- 02 41 59 98 28 Place du Champ de Foire Link Open all the days. Price:- * | | |
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