Latest Review***Le Gambetta, Saumur***Latest Review
Today, the 27th. October was my birthday, (I mention the date just in case anyone wants to start saving for a present for next year).It's also the date when the leaders of the Euro Zone seem to have finally reached an agreement on the debt crisis. That being the case I thought that they could stand just a little more debt and so we decided to go to Le Gambetta.
Le Gambetta is certainly not cheap. Evening menus From €29,50 to €94,00. Its main claim to fame is the fact that it is Saumur’s first Michelin starred restaurant. To me, however I shall always remember it as the restaurant where the dessert is a comedy act and leaves you, if not exactly splitting your sides, then certainly chuckling in a very contented manner. But more about this later.
Situated on a side road near the Cavalry School in the centre of Saumur. This tiny eatery of around ten tables was purchased by Céline et Mickaël Pihours in 2006. After only a few months they were mentioned in the Michelin guide and in 2010 were awarded their first Michelin star.
We went on a Thursday night and for the first hour were there on our own and served by a team of four people after being pleasantly received by Céline. After that time however another three tables were taken so we no longer felt that we were keeping the staff from their beds. But, even if the place was full, I cannot think of another restaurant where the staff to customer ratio is as high as here. Needless to say the service was impeccable.
When each course arrived at the table each intricate detail was carefully explained by one of the very knowledgable team. The dining room itself whilst attractive is quite minimilist but, when the food arrives, it doesn’t really matter because all your attention is focused on the creation in front of you. Of course there is a Michelin starred chef in the kitchen but I think there must also be an award winning architect as well because everything that is served arrives as a sort of architectural fantasy. Now, I am greatly in favour of well cooked, local cuisine but, every now and again what a treat it is to eat in a temple to food where every taste combination, every texture and the placement of every item on the plate has clearly been the result of much thought and planning.
Given the attention to detail you can expect to wait a while in between courses but, to fill in the spaces, a series of intricate amuse-bouche are served. Effectively these make the three course menu at €53,90 into something approaching a six course menu. Flavour combinations are adventurous and, to be fair, one or two did seem a little discordant to Sheila but there are so many tastes and textures that it wasn’t really that important. Because of the complexity it is actually quite difficult to describe how the dishes are presented so it is probably better if you have a look at the picture gallery on the restaurant site and you will get the idea.One thing is certain, once each plate is delivered it becomes a talking point as you try to discover the flavours and textures so you will never be short of dinner table conversation.
So, onto the dessert. It is called Souvenirs d’enfance, (Childhood Memories) 
and features all those childhood flavours which are hidden deep in our subconscious from a time when kids ate proper rubbish! Toffee apples, sticky toffee, ice cream, homemade lemonade and, believe it or not – candyfloss. I was promted to deamily relive the never-ending, hot summer days of a childhood long past, remembering roaming around hills and fields with a group of scruffy, ragamuffins all with grazed knees and sunburnt faces.
When I came back to reality I noticed a small portion of what looks like grated chocolate on the side of the plate. Sheila put hers into her mouth, let the chocolate melt and then I saw her eyes widen and looks of alarm and then amazement flash across her face as the tiny particles started to explode on her tongue. I tried it and the tiny explosions were surprisingly strong, rattling my teeth and actually seemingly biting my tongue.
As I said, you just had to smile
Le Puy Notre Dame
Le Bouchon Ponot
I have been a little busy lately with my new position of “travialleur social” - carer- to my wife, Sheila, who, after having spent a lifetime preparing for the big one by breaking various ankles, wrists, suffering severe whiplash and having various other mysterious and complicated illnesess which were a source of great delight and edification at assorted hospitals in both England and France, has now decided to slip a disc in her back and so is incapable of any meaningful movement. That is with the notable exception of her right hand, which, with the utmost dedication, she selflessly continues to use in writing page after page of lists, just in case I forget to do anything. Thus I am now trying to finish the renovations and, at the same time, do all the shopping,driving, cleaning, etc., etc. A woman’s work is never done! I really cannot understand what the problem is with women these days. In the past they would have a baby in their tea-break and then get back to the fish-gutting, corn threshing or whatever, ignoring any pain. Now, a little twinge from a disc pressing on the spinal nerve and that’s it - incapacitated. I blame Mrs. Pankhurst. One great problem was that, until recently, not only could Sheila not even stand and cook but, in her more depressed moments seemed quite prepared to put on her hair-shirt and live on stale bread and water. This does not suit me very well as, of course, what with all the extra duties plus the additional stress, (I mention stress simply because one feels that these days one must, otherwise it would seem as if I was the only person in the world not suffering from it), I am normally in a state of raveging hunger which sometimes puts me in danger of eating my own arm!!However, salvation was on the horizon, when the new restaurant, Le Bouchon Ponot, opened in the village. After a slightly dodgy start when Jean-Yves and his team had to overcome major obstacles like how to switch the new cookers on - and I am not joking!! - all has now settled down and each time we (or I) go it gets better and better.The restaurant is situated next to the small supermarket and occupies the former bread depot which, in turn, gave way to the artisan bakers just up the road. The renovations have been tastefully done and feature lots of the local white, “tuffeau”, stone this, together with the tiled floor, gives an impression of space and cleanliness. They have also managed to make the place look about three times the size it was before, which is a neat trick. Lunchtime meals are €11 and, like many local restaurants the menu is fixed. The price is for three courses and, normally, is the sort of simple, well prepared food one expects at lunchtime in rural France. The Evening menus start at around €18,00. The last time we went was last week and the entrées ranged from home produced paté to frogs legs, (which I love and were delicious), whilst the main course choices were monkfish, duck, beef or venison followed by cheese and a selection of desserts. I am afraid I neglected to ask about veggy options, a subject not dear to my heart, but I will do so tomorrow. Everything was superbly cooked although our friend though the veg was a little uninspiring. This is often a complaint about France in general and, given that the Loire is a major producer of market-garden produce it is strange but, I am afraid, that is the traditional french way with vegetables being given only a small accompanying role, almost as a garnish. The french generally supply the “bulk” by eating copious amounts of bread with their meals and quite often have a dish of “crudités”, - raw veg as a starter. 
And don’t forget that four courses is often the norm. The wine-list has only wine from two local producers, one organic, but it is quality stuff - the 2005 Red from La Domaine du Vieux Tuffeau is particularly interesting - and why not drink the local wine when you are eating in a wine producing village, particually one with its own appellation? All in all, a very promising start exemplified by the fact that it is getting busier and busier. The other night, (Thursday), there were just two tables empty, which is not bad for a restaurant in a small village in the middle of January and the talk in the bar on Saturday was that it had been full on Friday night. I presume that most of the people there could easily have eaten in Doué la Fontaine or Montreuil-Bellay, both five mins. away and with a vast choice of eateries. My rule of thumb in France is that if the locals use it then give it a try and I have rarely been disappointed. We are now recommending to our gite accommodation clients that we reserve the restaurant for them if they wish to eat there when they arrive. It really is a wonderful thing for both residents and holidaymakers to be able to walk to a local restaurant of quality, (or indeed a bar), given the increasing governmental pressure on drink-driving which, as a result, is becoming more and more risky. plus, of course, it is not very sensible. Thus I am sure that Le Bouchon Ponot will become a great asset to the village.
Supermarkets
It might seem strange to include supermarkets in a restaurant review but not to do so would be to neglect one of the great achievements of the French nation, up there with the discovery of Penicillin and the Suez and Panama Canal, (well, perhaps not the latter because the Americans had to finish that!).
But why is this? It is because by careful and intricate planning French men have persuaded French women that, in the great battle of the sexes, the women have won and they are now able to drag their men, kicking and screaming, to the supermarket. Or, in fact, not kicking and screaming at all, but rather with an ingratiating subservience.
However, far from being a victory for Womens’ Lib., what they do not seem to notice is that whilst they are wheeling their, malfunctioning “chariots”, around the aisles filling it with Cassoulet, Roquefort and Jammy Dodgers, their men folk are safely ensconced in the bar, contentedly drinking their wine, pastis or café calva and watching the crumpet walk by. Unless, that is, there is football or rugby on the bar TV. It is, of course, always a matter of priorities!
Of course, there has to be a trade off and this is that the men folk are expected to be at the till when their wives or partners arrive. This is somewhat annoying when one is down to the last five minutes of a Six Nations Rugby Match, but that is the way the contract works. At least watching the bulk of a rugby match on TV is better than inanely following your wife up and down supermarket aisles for several hours, like some perverse copy of the Muslim tradition which has the women following some way behind the men!
What these bars also do is to supply cheap, good value food at lunchtime, (12.00 until 2.00pm) and, if you are in a rush or have large families to feed, they really are ideal. Their popularity is proven by the fact that, come midday, they are inundated by local workers from the surrounding offices and factories. Another, not inconsequential, result of the supermarkets hosting bar/restaurants is that they have to stay open during the lunchtime hours. This is by far the best time to do your shopping as all, self respecting French people are eating. As all the bar/restros are franchised their method of operation tends to vary at the discretion of the franchisee. For example, the Bar/Restro at Centre Leclerc in Saumur, is a straightforward self-service operation, although the vegetables and chips are supplied 'ad-hoc' from another service area behind the main till. The Bar/Restro in the Super-U at Doué la Fontaine is similar but gives you a ticket whilst the main meal is being prepared. The Super-U at Vihiers, by far my favourite, operates as a straightforward restaurant with waiter service for the main course and cheese/dessert with the entrée normally being from a self-service all-you-can-eat hors d'hoeuvre salad/charcuterie bar. If you ask for coffee, with the exception of Vihiers, all the others give you a token or a ticket. The token means that somewhere in the vicinity there is a self-service expresso machine and the ticket means that you go to the bar to obtain your coffee, after you have finished your meal. It is a great surprise to the French if you want to drink a beverage during a meal instead of afterwards. It offends their perceived notion of how things should be done! So there you are. You cannot expect haute cuisine and one must say that sometimes the quality is occasionally variable. But millions of French workers cannot be wrong. And it has to be better than a recently deceased sandwich with a cup of lukewarm, indeterminable liquid from a café in Asda. Probably costs about the same as well!
Saumur
L'Escargot
A tiny restaurant between Saumur and Bagneux seating only about 20 people. The heavy door constructed of wood with small glass panes opens onto a room with a draped ceiling. As you might expect as soon as you hear the name (l'escargot) it always offers recipes based on its gastropod mascot. It includes traditional French cuisine, superbly presented. You are often served by the Chef, Monsieur Olivier Thibault, having just cooked the dish. He displays a strong predilection for combining local and sea produce with exoticism or sweet and sour. A personal service is provided by his wife, Christine, who is very pleasant. On the day everyone thought their particular choice was very well cooked, I was particularly impressed by my unusual starter of snails in a cream sauce with oriental mushrooms. Many well chosen Loire wines by the glass available and also a winebar. Charming garden terrace at rear.
L'Auberge St. Pierre
Situated, in a listed XVth building with its three superb tuffeau fireplaces on the corner of the square, alongside the church of Saint-Pierre. Over the years this has been our favourite restaurant, as much for its relaxed, friendly ambiance and its position, as for its food. To eat outside on the terrace on a warm summer night whilst, at the same time, watching everything that is going on around you, is I think, a holidaymaker's dream of what France is about. There is true French food and cooking, excellent service controlled with a rod of iron by the head waiter, Pascal, (he of the handlebar moustache)! "Le Coté du Boeuf", for two people, is a rib of beef, carved at the table with panache. Perhaps a question mark over it at the moment, as it has new owners, so we will have to see if the new chef maintains the elevated standards of his predecessor.
L'Auberge de Reine de Sicile
Away from the beaten track, on a sidestreet, "entre les ponts", (on the island, between the two bridges, in the Loire). This little inn where calmness is king, welcomes you in an authentic setting by the fireside. (which, in winter, is often used to cook on). Discover a good value for money menu which changes with the rhythm of the seasons and a selection of wines available by the glass. Speciality is delicious pan cooked langoustines served with freshly made tagliatelle Lovely personal service! All our guests love this eatery. You can eat outside on the terrace in summer.
Doué la Fontaine
Le Brasserie de Ville
One of the things that I used to enjoy doing in Doué was to sit outside this Brassiere/Bar with a friend or two, watching the cars attempting to negotiate the junction just outside, placing bets on the car most likely to have a crash! This was because four roads joined at that point and no-one seemed to have the slightest idea who had the right of way. Sadly, however, the town council, in a most unfrench like attack of Health and Safetyitus, have replaced this junction with a small roundabout and have instituted a totally nonsensical one way system throughout the town. This relieves the stress on motorists using the junction, but replaces it with worse stress because no-one has a clue how to navigate the narrow streets. Modifying the junction is basically a bad idea because it stops people enjoying a small pleasure in life. What they should have done was publicise "Crash Corner", in the Office de Tourisime as one of the minor sights of interest in the town and placed a few benches around so the public could have enjoyed the fun. Anyway, the net result was that the owners upped sticks and left obviously because they felt there was a yawning gap in their lives - they are, probably, even now scouring France for a Brasserie next to "Crash Corner 2" However, in their absence, the new owner has continued the concept of Brasserie at Lunchtime and Bar in the Evenings. Serving traditional French lunch time grub at a reasonable price and, as is usual, the Plat de Jour being particularly good value. (Rosbif and Frites €6.80). The speciality à la maison is Moules et Frites at €8.50, with a drink included. Though not as modern and as stylish as some of the newer eateries in Doué, it has loads of "savoir faire" and an authentique Brasserie feel. Shame about Crash Corner though!!!
Auberge Bienvenue
Gastronomic restaurant inside a hotel. This is a real chicken and egg question, what came first the hotel or the restaurant? In fact, unusually, it was the hotel which came second, built on the success of the restaurant!! It offers first-class presentation on fine china plates. This is French gourmet cuisine at its best. Although expensive in french terms, the prices are very competitive when compared to similar restaurants in the UK and elsewhere. The service is polite and attentive and various "amuse-bouche", (savoury titbits), are always included in the price. Established now for over 19 years under the same ownership, it has the reputation of having one of the best tables in the region,. always featuring fresh local produce.
Créperie L'Astrée
Restaurant in centre of town serving delicious choice of simple foods, including assorted crepes, and have a very good 'Menu du Jour' at lunchtimes. The setting is extremely modern, with nice decor, friendly, comfortable and you can watch the chef in action as he cooks inside the restaurant! Very popular at lunchtimes.
Le Caveau
In the very heart of the town, the oldest Fouaces restaurant of Doué la Fontaine. The place to go if you don't want to miss regional specialities in a troglodyte setting! A good welcome is guaranteed. It is noted in the Guide du Routard. For a fuller explanation of what a "Fouace" restaurant is all about see the entry below for "La Grange à Dime" in Montreuil-Bellay. Fixed Menu Troglo €21.50 (Aperitif, Wine and Coffee included). Childrens menu €10,00
Le Baccarat, Intermarché
Apparently the Chinese are opening one mammoth, coal-fired power station every month. Each one of these emits more carbon then the rest of the known universe. And then some. Which is why I decided to replace my ancient electric razor with a traditional wet one, thus doing my bit to combat the peril from the east. All we need to do now is to stop cows farting and we are on a roll. On one of my rare sorties through SuperU, I purchased something called a Gillette Mach or Macho Razor or some suitably masculine sounding thing. Surprisingly; it appeared to be the only item in the Men’s Hygiene Department which had no picture of David Beckham or Zinidan Zidaine stuck on it (thankfully), but it did have a futuristic ultimate war machine on the front, or perhaps it was just a razor painted like a futuristic, ultimate war machine. Anyway, the razor did the job excellently although, the first time, it left my face looking like the back of a self-flagellating Opus Dei monk. Eventually, of course one has to buy new blades for a razor but it is at this point that one realises that although SuperU sells the razor, by some sort of convoluted logic, they do not actually sell the replacement blades to go with it. Don’t ask me why. Now Sheila, on one of her Voyages of Discovery, or ‘shopping trips’, as they are also known, actually found out that the replacement blades were sold in Intermarché, the other large supermarket in Doué la Fontaine. They do not, of course, seem to sell the razor!! But the problem is that I rarely enter through the portals of Intermarché as I find the interior dismal, and not much of the variety that you may expect in the early years of the 21st Century and the staff/customer ratio seems to be totally out of balance…..Oh, and it hasn’t got a bar either. I have therefore been reduced to buying packets of disposable razors from our local shop in Le Puy Notre Dame. These razors are perfectly functional when it comes to shaving the hairs on the front of my face but are about as much use as a chocolate teapot when it comes to tackling the softer hairs under my chin. Thus, over a period of a few weeks, I acquired a noticeable layer of thick felt under the jaw, which serves no noticeable purpose whatsoever, except for hiding malignant mosquitos, it also looks decidedly odd. So finally I steeled myself to go to Intermarché. Well, on arriving on the car park you could have knocked me down with a pain au chocolat. Not only had the whole store been renovated but someone has bunged a brand new bar/restaurant on the front of it. I am sure it wasn’t there when I passed it last week. At this point may I thank all of you ,who actually thought this review was about a restaurant, for staying with me! We have now actually arrived at the said establishment. It is called the ‘Le Baccarat’ and is cleverly situated so that you do not actually feel that you are in the supermarket itself. It is brand, spanking new and has a sun terrace in front, together with tables and parasoles. Service is pleasant and attentive and the quality/food ratio is superb.We chose the €11,00 four-course Menu, (€16,00 over the weekend). This consisted of a self-service salad/entrée bar followed by a “plat principal”, followed by cheese dessert. The entrée included things like crevettes, spiced sausages, prawns, boudin noir, fresh salads, dressings, etc., etc. The main courses had about six choices including fish dishes, beef goulash, roast beef and braised ham. I had the ‘Beef Goulash’ which was subtly spiced and very tender. Sheila had the ‘Roast Beef’ which was done to perfection; rosy/red in the centre and, again very tender. The round dessert table was groaning, under a very large selection, sitting on a bed of ice. Sheila chose a huge slice of Lemon Meringue which, Harry Potter like, she magically made invisible. I, being of much sterner stuff chose to have neither cheese nor dessert. Thus aquiring a certain feeling of moral superiority.With a perfectly acceptable half pitcher of Anjou Rouge and Coffee, the total bill was €25,00. I didn’t even bother to negotiate a lower price to acknowledge the fact that I had not had the last two courses from the fixed menu. I thought it was pretty good value as it was.hey also do an à la carte which includes grills, (steaks etc.) salads and there is a choice of ten different pizzas.So, in short, excellent food, incredible prices, pretty good choice and clean, pleasant surroundings. Ideal for a family lunch, without breaking the bank.You can also do your shopping there. That is, of course, unless you want to buy a Gillette Mach II Turbo Razor. You can get the replacement blades though
Montreuil-Bellay
La Grange a Dime
Genuine 15th Century setting which will transport you back to the Middle Ages! Traditional Loire fare, just one fixed priced, unchanging menu, consisting of aperitif, starter, main course, cheese and dessert and wines included. The style is "fouées" which is the name of the type of bread, traditional to the Loire region, baked on the premises in a wood fire and served throughout the meal to accompany such things as gallipettes, rillets and cassoulet. Great atmosphere with the staff in medieval dress (with varying degrees of success!). Service very pleasant, attentive and informal. Four courses and wines included €23,50.
L'Auberge d'Escallier
Up to the end of last year, if you were around the Place du Marché around 18.30hrs in the evening you could often see a diminutive Asian woman with a big plastic carrier-bag stomping methodically from the car-park in front of the Chateau to her tiny Chinese Take- Away' in the square. The carrier-bag, one assumes, carried all the ingredients for the evening's culinary masterpieces. It was a true example of the triumph of hope over reality and it was quite clear that the carrier- bag was carrying less and less ingredients, even to the extent that if you happened to see her leaving you could not help but notice that sometimes the bag seemed fuller than when it arrived! Eventually she realised that operating a restaurant in the Loire without customers is actually quite difficult to do and she sold her enterprise to the restaurant next door, which now occupies a delightful position, having a double- frontage with chairs and tables clustered around the small fountain in the square. Food is the sort of good quality, competitively priced simple meals which is often so difficult to find elsewhere. Crépes (sweet and savoury filled pancakes), Galletes, Grilles and Salads. The fixed price menus are very well priced, the decor is pleasant and authentic and the service polite and helpful. One of our favourite good value restaurants in the Loire region.
L'Auberge des Iles
The setting for this restaurant is an dream of what the Loire is all about, just at the foot of the Chateau in Montreuil-Bellay and alongside the River Thouet. In the heat of summer they have the sort of shady terrace you dream of, under trees designed to provide shade, idyllic and peaceful. This is good cooking with fish dishes and grill specialities. It seats up to 150 people. One of our favourite places to spend long Sunday lunches, which is just as well as the service is sometimes as laid back as the ambiance! So just enjoy it!!. Wine available from the Chateau towering above.
Le Barbicane
This was not really a full time restaurant at all, just doing simple light good value meals and sandwiches at lunch time. It was actually a Bar and Salon de Thé, but I have always included it because we love sitting on the wooden, flower-decked terrace directly opposite the impressive chateau (which provides the wine with your meal). Lovely place to eat after a visit to the little market in the morning on Tuesdays. Now, with new owners, the menu has increased and the property extended. Has an increasing reputation for it's "moules".
Here you can enjoy a gourmet stop for lunch or dinner in the heart of the village just opposite the Royal Abbey. It offers wonderful gastronomic food in the hotel's restaurant or in the charming flowered terrace. Also there is a brasserie serving traditional food. Like all hotel restaurants the ambiance is sometimes subdued if it is a quiet time. But the food is excellent.
