}
The overall size of the combined appellation is 15,100..hectares, making
around 182,260 hectolitres of wine per year (1hectolitre=100 litres). Saumur itself
makes over 104,000 hectolitres of Saumur Brut, (sparkling wine).
Red wine is relatively new in the region, in fact California has made red
wine in commercial quantities for far longer than here. It was only
after the demise of the great rosé boom that winemakers began to look
at the possibilities of using the cabernet franc grape to produce fine reds.
The appellation is the largest in France for the production of dry whites.
The great sweet wine appellation "Coteaux de Saumur is one of the smallest
in the whole Loire region at just 17 hectares.
The Loire has the longest wine routes in France. Together they
traverse practically the whole 630 miles of the Loire Valley. In Anjou the
wine route runs from the vineyards of Muscadet in the west to the red wine
regions of Chinon and Bourgueil in the East.
There has much been written on the wine of Anjou
unfortunately, with several notable exceptions, much of it is trite and
superficial. I have the impression that, with many recent works, the
source of information is books that have been written many years
earlier. This perceived wisdom simply does not take into account
the vast strides that winemakers in the region have made in the past 20
years or so. The potential has always been here to make great wine, now
that potential is being realised. For example many famous wine experts
still talk of Loire reds in general as being like super-rosé's.
This is simply not true. To be sure there are wines like that, made
deliberately to be lightly chilled and enjoyed on a hot summer's day but
you will also find red wine that is as dark as any you will find in the
South or the New World.
However I can well understand why many authorities tend to gloss over
this, one of France's most fascinating wine regions and that is simply
because the region is frankly - complicated. With around 26
separate appellations it is intricate web of overlapping appellations
which make it very difficult to get a handle on to it. Couple that with
the myriad soil types; from the pure, dense limestone of Saumur to the
dark schist of the Layon and you have a region of such complexity that
you could happily pass the rest of your wine appreciating life here,
discovering the little known appellations which almost always contain a
hidden gem.
The size of the Anjou/Saumur vineyard is immense and it benefits
from a temperate climate, which is in itself divided into several
micro-climates. It is far enough inland to escape most of the winter
storms which can affect the nantais and is near enough to the coast to
have a more temperate climate than the continental one which affects the
central vineyards to the East. This combination of factors favours a
staggering richness in its wine.
The white wines are fruity and distinguished when dry with ample acidity
and a lemony finish, when sweet they are generous and honeylike with
overtures of tropic fruit, particularly of lychées. The red wines are
ruby coloured with notes of red fruit, fresh and aromatic, very
attractive in their youth whilst those that are made for ageing are
dense, complex and mouth-filling. The rosés, of which there are many
different examples, both sweet and dry are gentle, perfumed and light,
ideal at any time under the Anjou summer sun. The sparkling wines really
define the region, their elegance and sophistication seemingly in
perfect harmony with the grandeur of the chateaux for which the Loire is
equally famous. It is in Saumur that the emphasis is really on what the
French call fine boulles - fine bubbles. Saumur is France's second
largest producer after Champagne and often produces wine which puts its
more famous competitor in the shade.
